Aonach Dubh ice

Headed to the Coe with Andy, hoping to get on Raven's Gully. The S.Highlands were icy and neve'd from Ben Lomond onwards, so it was disappointing when we saw Raven's chockstones looking black from the road (along with much of the rest of the Buachaille). So, we aborted Plan A and drove onwards hoping to salvage something out of the day.

Stob Coire nan Looseblock was looking pretty grim too, so it was a real surprise to find the icefalls and gullies of Aonach Dubh complete just down the road (even Elliot's Downfall was touching down- just). Guidebook-less, we used our advanced numeracy skills and worked out where No.6 Gully (IV,4) was. We then raced a couple of English guys to the start, as a long Conga line of multi- nationals followed behind. No.6 was in very good nick and we romped it to the top, well before the Clachaig started serving beer. A great route, but what to do now?

Me leading the crux of No.6 Gully- (photo Andy Clark)

The party behind us had given a heads-up that Deep Cut Chimney was out of nick, so we binned that idea and headed back down and got on The Screen (IV,5). Naebody else was on it, it looked a bit harder but that was fine as it was Andy's lead.

Andy on the approach to The Screen

 Soon he established himself half way up the fan shaped icefall. I watched him inserting ice screws in clusters and then listened perplexed, as he bemoaned a lack of confidence in the ice and screws. The ice had been great on No.6...
'Come on Andy, get on with it, they're bomber- I've fallen onto a stubby before!', I thought. This was ridiculous!
Andy remained established and after a further period of establishment I felt the need to utilise my belay jaiket.
Eventually, movement did occur and Andy shouted 'Safe'.

Andy leading the crux of The Screen

I followed on, determined to cruise it on the blunt end. I've been to Rjukan a couple of times- so watch and learn Andy!
Belaying provides boundless opportunities for unfounded bravado and, sure enough, this was the case here. In contrast to the appearances from terra firma, the 'easy' bits were very steep. And the long steeper bits were basically full- on vertical. Add a horrible, detached, crusty hollow section around the half way mark to the mix and I could suddenly see exactly why he had remained 'established' as long as he did.

The fact he remained established at all was pretty remarkable.
It was bold and really quite hard. V,5 on the day, but nails and necky V,5 at that. A great lead and quite a humbling second for me!

Bidean and Stob Coire nam Beith

I did another easier pitch above and then we did a long rap off a tree, before de-camping to the Kingy for a quick pint. A great day out in fabulous Alpine conditions- yet again!

Pigs of Orchy

Had a great wee day out climbing on Beinn Udlaidh on Thursday 14th March with Gary Gray and Dafydd Morris.
Daf had been out solo'ing on Beinn an Dothaidh the day before and reported good ice on Taxus and Cirrus. With the low temps this last week Udlaidh might be in?

Driving down Glen Orchy we caught sight of the crags. Unfortunately, it all looked very thin and grey (rather than the solid white of good ice). Some of the classics like Peter Pan were obviously incomplete- so we had to summon all our reserves of psyche to decide to head up.

Udlaidh has one of the easiest crag approaches in Scotland so we weren't expecting to have to put in much effort on the walk- in. However, when we crossed the fence this was all to change- thanks to a large pig. We weren't sure if the huge porker's intentions were amorous or vicious and we were soon at full Olympic power walking pace (and occasional jogging) trying to keep away from it. I don't know what aftershave Daf was wearing but it seemed to quite fancy him. Gary and I made the effort to keep ahead of Daf- he's pretty skinny but if the pig wanted Welsh meat it could have him! This specimen had the legs to keep up through 2 fields despite our attempts to fend it off with walking poles. Top tip- it's not ideal to be carrying a sack full of Winter gear when trying to evade large livestock.

Climbing the final stile to safety we bumped into the charming farmer's wife coming back down the fire road with her pack of dugs. She denied anyone had ever been eaten by her swine and also confirmed that the ice was indeed thin up in them thar hills...  : (

Gary on the traverse of Cut It (IV,5)

In the end we did 2 good routes- salvaging what initially looked like a miserable day -

First up was South Gully of the Black Wall (IV,4). Ironically enough, the nick on this was excellent. Daf set off up the intro chimney. It was thickly iced and he was delighted to find chewy, first time axe placements from the start. Gary got the crux top pitch and made a good job of dealing with the drier, featured ice and steep steps. It was the second time I've done this route and I really enjoyed it again. Brilliant!

Back down, finding Quartzvein occupied by a Plas y Brenin guide and client, we got on Dave MacLeod's Cut It (at the guidebook grade of IV,4).

Me on the second pitch of Cut It (IV,5)- photo Gary Gray

This takes an obvious left to right ascending traverse from near the start of Quartzvein to arrive at the half- way belay of the Croc. It then takes the steep second pitch of the Croc (V,5) to top out.

The lower pitch of the Croc was non- existent (as was the main fall of Peter Pan to its right) but the Croc's upper pitch looked fat. Daf led out on the easy grade II ledge traverse to belay after 40m. I got the steep upper section. This pitch is very exposed and steep for 30m and it seemed a bit hard for a IV. Maybe a touch of the MacLeod sandbag here (a la Glasgow No more at Auchinstarry)? We felt tech 5 was more like it- and maybe even V,5.

Regardless, after having ribbed Gary for his liberal use of screws on his lead of South Gully I had to eat my words. I stitched my pitch to the hilt!

Pigs of Orchy from Davie Crawford on Vimeo.

Ben Lomond hat trick!

I've been knee deep in Southern Highlands esoterica in the last few weeks and, with good conditions continuing, was keen to arrange more of this unfrequented fun while it lasted. I'd already been in touch with Andy Nisbet about climbing on Ben Lomond during the Winter. Both of us had done some stuff there in the past- with our shared interest in the crag, were keen to team up for some new lines. It turned out to be a successful mission!

We slogged our way up a partially broken trail to the summit ridge. Tying laces and putting poons on in the biting Easterly wind was purgatory, and it was a real relief to descend Easy Gully and find the coire was completely sheltered. Blood slowly returned to our extremities as we scoped out possibilities. Conditions were excellent- solid turf, bits of ice and a good amount of hoar on the rock.

Andy on the ice bulge of Rowardennan Rib. The second pitch goes through the overhangs above.

After a short stroll we arrived below a square- cut rib near Endrick Corner (V,6). Andy bagsied the first lead and made quick progress up to a tricky section- a steep ice bulge. Soon he disappeared out of sight to belay on top of the rib. It was a good lead. I really enjoyed seconding the sequence of moves on ice but noted how bold it must have felt to Andy on the sharp end.

On the second crux of Rowardennan Rib (V,5)

I set off up the second pitch. Turf led directly to the band of intimidating overhangs above, with a shallow groove offering a potential line of weakness. I unearthed a crucial wire placement at a ledge below, and then banged in a hook for good measure. The turf seemed good enough to encourage me to go for the initial move to enter the groove- a fairly strenuous pull up. I was committed but there were still a good few moves to do before I could relax. Just when the run- out was starting to feel a wee bit spicy I found sanctuary with a stonking hex in the corner above. Phew!

Andy finishing off the second pitch. The square cut rib of the first pitch is below.

I took a belay at a good ledge above the steep ground and Andy disappeared up an easier finishing pitch. Up top, chuffed with the route, I would have been happy enough to head off down at that point, but Andy was fired up for doing a 'couple more'. He certainly likes to get value for money for his long journey down from Aviemore!

The trio of lines left of Endrick Corner

So, down we went to an area left of Endrick Corner. A trio of gully and groove lines all start from a central snow bay. We roped up for the grade III left branch which offered 60m of climbing, with some technical interest around a turfy bulge higher up. After that, we abandoned the ropes and headed off to solo the slightly longer central grade II line. After topping that one out I politely declined Andy's invite to join him in solo'ing the final right hand route. Down he went again, reappearing at the top again shortly afterwards- making his tally up to 4. The man is a machine! It's no surprise he has around 1000 new routes to his name...

The 5km back down to the lochside was a long one as it went dark, with a couple of unplanned skites onto our backsides on patches of ice to punctuate the grind. What a great day out. My first hat- trick of routes in a day in Scotland!

Gangnam Style

Went up Beinn Ime again, this time with Andy Clark. I've climbed there 3 times in the last 2 weeks!
It's a good crag, rarely visited (despite it only being a 45 min drive from Glasgow) but definitely worthwhile if the conditions allow.

Andy on the descent to Fan Gully Buttress

There's been quite a bit of snow over the Highlands recently. After reading various reports of unstable snow further North we decided to keep it as safe we we could. Arrochar seemed the best bet- so we took that gamble, hoping that the altitude of Beinn Ime's crags would have kept the turf solid after a week of rollercoaster temperatures. Most importantly, we crossed our fingers that the Westerlies hadn't turned Ime's East facing slopes into death traps.

When we stopped at the gearing up stone near the summit, we realised something was different from the usual suffering- we were comfortable while adding the layers. It was feckin' boiling- which was a bit of a conundrum. The air temperature was probably minus 4, but an unusually strong Scottish Winter sun was warming us. Anyway, we geared up as normal and trepidatiously descended a gully, to arrive sweating below the routes. The snow had been stable enough to walk down without avalanching on us but our prospects didn't look good. We were hot and bothered and the snow was melting off anything exposed to the sun.

A quick brainstorm came up with three options-
1/ Hanging Groove (IV,5) (in the shade).
2/ the recently recorded Gangnam Style- at the proposed grade of (V,7) (also in the shade).
3/ go home (we'd rather have gone to the pub).

Both the routes were in the shade. These could be our salvation and the pub could wait. I'd already done Hanging Groove with Jim Hall,  so I couldn't resist the temptation of a bit of Gangnam Style, especially with the Mediterranean style sunshine. We could be in San Antonio....

Andy Clark starting the crux pitch of Gangnam Style

I plodded up some horrific knee to thigh deep porridge and entered the shade to do the first pitch. Thankfully the snow firmed up in the cold, and a short tech 4 corner led to a turfy buttress. From a shared belay, Gangnam runs parallel and on the right of Hanging Groove. Andy seconded that first pitch while a Paraffin Budgie buzzed around in the background, presumably doing Mountain Rescue training near Ben Vane.

Andy made short work of the 1st hard pitch. I arrived at his belay after a decent (but enjoyable) tech 6 struggle. I looked up and very quickly decided it would be time for some 'block leading' on Andy's part. My Spidysense had detected difficulty...<Translation- I thought, 'F That', and sent the ropegun up there!>

Crux pitch of Gangnam Style

Good call- the next pitch really was a good bit harder than the last one and I needed a pretty tight rope seconding a horribly footless slabby section around mid-way, before another hard bit. After that I had to work hard to make the long step right to a turfy rib where the pitch eventually eased off. This pitch was very sustained and tricky. It was much harder than the last pitch- which would be worth V,6 in itself. A cracking lead on Andy's part.

We finished up around 70m of grade II buttress ground, avoiding a steep wall that had been climbed on the first ascent. It was as black as the ace of spades and we didn't have the time to do it. As we walked off into the sunset the views were clear for 40 miles down the Firth of Clyde. Another stunning day in the Alps- the Arrochar Alps!

The Cobbler, The Brack and the Firth of Clyde from Beinn Ime

Bits and bobs in Monsoon season

After being spoiled by the incredibly dry Scottish Spring, drought has given way to a sucker punch of a Summer deluge that has scuppered many of my Summer climbing aspirations. "That'll teach ye!"- cackles the cruel mistress of Scottish conditions.

Fortunately, indoor climbing walls mean that training can be done regardless of what it's like outside. I'm one of the hordes who flock to Ibrox in the evenings, on a mission to get stronger. I'm a wee bit ashamed to admit that it's been dry on some of these nights (after rain during the day)- but I've chosen to go for the indoor option instead of making the effort to squeeze in a couple of trad routes before sunset. Back in the 1990's Ibrox was virtually deserted on any dry Summer evening. Now it's the real crags that are less busy- and some are becoming overgrown due to lack of traffic. Changed days, and I'm as guilty as anyone.

It's a bit of a conundrum for me- I really want the benefits of the wall fitness but I know from experience that the best thing I could do to help me climb well on trad would be to get as much mileage as possible- on trad!

It hasn't all been plastic and plywood though. Despite the weather and being kept very busy by our wee puppy Brodie, I have managed to do a fair bit of enjoyable outdoor stuff.

Burnsie's First Ascent of the Font 6B+ at 'Fintainebleau'

In 2006, Burnsie unearthed a gem amongst the choss of the Campsie Fells- a huge sandstone boulder perched on the skyline above Fintry. We headed up and did most of the obvious easier routes on the initial '06 sortie to 'Fint'. The Southern Arete ('Fint' 5+) with its slightly unnerving highball mantle finish was the hardest of them.

However, one line resisted our efforts. The overhanging West Wall had some good holds on it, but turned out much harder than we'd imagined. After umpteen unsuccessful 'one last goes' we had to admit defeat, shouldered our pads and stomped back down to the road. We were chuffed but both knew we had unfinished business up there.

In July we perspired our way up through fields of stampeding bullocks, knee deep bogs, and squadrons of clegs to resume battle. Burnsie summitted first, using tiny crimps before making a dynamic move for a large sloping hold. I found eventual success via a highly precarious mantleshelf method that threatened to spit me off into a tumble down the hillside. Luckily I latched the jug at the top! We were both highly chuffed with the new three star Fint 6B+. For the esotericists, here's an approximate OS grid reference- NS 625 888.

Burnsie on the finely positioned 2nd pitch of Ardgartan Arete (VS)

I had hoped to have at least a handful of Mountain routes done by this stage of the season but the Monsoon means I've managed a grand total of one- on the South Peak of the Cobbler.

Burnsie and I did our usual brutally quick, but much less scenic approach via the Rest and Be Thankful. I'd seen a Mountain forecast of pleasant, warm conditions and based on that we hoped to try Gladiator's Groove Direct (E1). Unfortunately, at 600m we entered thick claggy cloud, and by the summit baltic Easterly winds were gusting 30mph and higher. The schist was very slick and damp and the South Peak was invisible only 50 yards away. Not ideal. We sheltered, and waited for a break in the clouds hoping we'd be able to salvage something from the trip.

After lunch the cloud base lifted above the tops. Although the rock dried out, the temperatures stayed low along with the psyche levels. Gusty winds and lack of time made us reluctant to jump onto a reputedly bold E1. So, instead we racked up and got on Ardgartan Arete (VS) carrying our ruckies. The first pitch follows a very thin crack line up a slab and over a crux bulge. The crack is quite blind so it's fairly run- out. Thankfully the climbing is never desperate though, with some balancey moves to sharpen the concentration when above gear.

The guide describes two further pitches but Burnsie ended up running both of them together, which wasn't a problem and this seemed quite logical with our half ropes. Although the first pitch is probably the technical crux, the second was definitely the better pitch- following an exposed and aesthetic line near the arete itself. It was an enjoyable route and definitely worthwhile after our initial weather woes. We then scrambled over the South Peak and zipped back down to the car where the midges had a quick snack on us as we packed up. Ironically it was still and warm back in the Glen.

Burnsie setting off on Arrol's Arete (F6

The other day me, Burnsie and John Sharples visited Blantyre Towers. There are around a dozen well- bolted routes here in a quiet wooded setting next to the River Calder. The routes (from 10- 20m high) tackle the aretes and faces of the sandstone piers that are relics of the abandoned Greenhall Viaduct.

Sandstone railway walls have long been popular as training venues for climbers. This one shares the same formula of rough stone blocks featuring 2 finger pockets of varying depths and small crimps. The climbing itself is pumpy and enjoyable, if a wee bit repetitive due to the nature of the holds.

The climbing has similarities to the infamous Finnieston railway walls in Glasgow, but Blantyre has these key differences-
-it's a pleasant rural setting.
-you're  going up instead of traversing.
-there's no busy dual carriageway ten feet behind yer arse.
-you're breathing air, not exhaust fumes.
-getting arrested is unlikely.

I was happy to flash Alouette Arete (F6a- 10m), but Arrol's Arete (F6b- 18m) had me spanked fairly near the top. I'm keen to go back and try to redpoint the routes, ideally when there's a decent breeze! Unfortunately, on our visit there were clouds of Daddy Longlegs sized mosquitoes sucking the life out of us- despite using DEET repellent. Burnsie texted me to say he'd woken up like the Elephant Man with the bites he'd sustained. I thought I'd left the mossies back in Bermuda. If it's not the weather it's the insects trying to do you in here!

Expedition to the Dolerites

Just had a wee expedition to the Dolerites in the company of Jim 'Faither' Hall. It was my first time there in 5 years and it was great to be back.

For those who haven't been, Auchinstarry Quarry is close to Glasgow on the doorstep of Kilsyth. The crags surround a cute loch created by the quarrying, with fishermen dotted round the landscaped shores. At first glance it looks pretty idyllic. From the climbers' point of view the crag features 20- 25m high Dolerite buttresses with some real classic routes from Severe to around E5.

It's very popular- mainly because there aren't many good crags in the Glasgow area. Consequently, it's a bit polished and it can also be a bit sandy in the car park area.

However, the main downside to the venue is its close proximity to Kilsyth. Many Scottish small town crags are magnets for local 'wine connoisseurs' and Auchinstarry is no different. Groups of them can often be seen sampling a cheeky Chateau Buckfast (or three). Regular Auchinstarry devotees develop Zen abilities to zone out on the sound of screaming and smashing bottles. The worst case scenario is if they start throwing objects down the routes- but luckily that's not the norm. It's all a bit like the pub in Star Wars, but the creatures are uglier and they wear tracksuits.

Jim Hall on Spirogyra (VS)

One reason I really like the place is that Spirogyra (VS) was one of my very first leads back in the early '90s. At that time I was desperate to get into lead climbing so I killed two birds with one stone and bought my mate Danny a rack of 8 wires for his birthday. It was a very expensive present but it wasn't really that altruistic- I couldn't afford to buy gear for myself and get him a present. I felt a bit ashamed, but quickly swallowed my guilt and 'borrowed' the wires almost as soon as the gift wrap was off. I led Spirogyra with the 8 wires and 5 screwgates. I remember tackling the crux and finding it quite tricky. Despite carrying a rack that could sink the Titanic it still felt nippy 20 years later.

During the afternoon Jim dispatched the popular routes Slinky Lizard (HS) and Trundle (VS) in good style despite wearing the cheapest, nastiest Decathlon kippers money can buy. 

Leading Walk on the Wild Side (HVS) photo by Jim Hall

Last route of the day was a return for me to the route Walk on the Wild Side (HVS). It's quite a bold slab climb on crimpy edges and I think it's one of the best routes of its grade anywhere.

It has a justified reputation for seriousness. The start is very bold, with the first tiny micro wire placements appearing around the 7-8m mark. The gear improves as you gain height but it's still a route that requires a cool head. All your weight is on your feet, on tiny edges throughout, and if you tense up it's easy for your calf muscles to cramp up and Elvis to enter the building (and stay there!).

I've led it a handful of times and it never feels trivial, even when I'm going well. On this occasion I felt pretty good and moved as quickly as I could between gear placements. However, on this ascent I was wearing very soft smeary shoes. I hit the jugs at the top with my feet in agony while my arms were completely unpumped...

A check of the watch while coiling the ropes up top revealed it was half past beer o'clock, so we decamped to the Kirky Puffer for a nice pint of real ale. A great wee re-union with the Dolerites!

Avoiding Elvis at Glen Nevis

Cavalry Crack Buttress, with Dundee Buttress to its left and Secretaries' Buttress above.

Just back from my first trad climbing trip for years. The last time I climbed a Summer pitch sticking 'they metal hings' in the rock must have been way back in 2008. My mate Andy texted me to say he had obtained a Gold Pass (freedom for an over-nighter) for the June bank holiday weekend. He hadn't been out climbing much recently and his liberation coincided with a good forecast- game on!

The original plan was to go over to Garbh Bheinn and try to get on a few of the classics. However, eagle- eyed Andy noticed that MWIS were forecasting 3 degrees C at 900m, with Northerly winds. The idea of multi-pitch mountain routes started looking a bit masochistic. After some thought we realised both of us hadn't been to Glen Nevis in ages. 10- 15mph winds were forecast, so maybe the midges wouldn't be too bad?

Andy picked me up on Saturday evening driving a courtesy car- a wee Hyundai i10 automatic. Awesome. You can barely get a handbag in the boot of these cars so the seats had to go down to accept our kit laden sacs, tent and midgy repellent. It felt like a pedal car as we buzzed up the A82 and brought back memories of early 90's trips in various tin box Fiat Pandas (the ultimate snow driving car). We arrived outside the Kingshouse Hotel in Glencoe and managed to secure one of the last tent spaces near the road. Tent up quick, we proceeded straight to the busy Climbers' Bar to partake in a few ales and some chat with a couple of lads from Yorkshire who were planning to go up Ben Nevis.

Andy at the top of Secretaries' Direct (S

Next morning the 7am alarm felt like a lie in according to Andy (he has 2 young kids). The sun was out and the Buachaille looked superb, as ever.

I was delighted to feel totally fresh after sticking to a self- imposed 3 pint rule the night before. We got to Fort William only to find that Morrisons didn't open until 9am so we were forced to traipse over to McDonalds. It was my first visit to the ginger- permed population poisoner's emporium in donkey's years, and I really hope it will be my last 'unhappy meal'. I don't need any help getting super- sized, thanks Ron.

 Driving up the Glen, hordes of aspirant Ben summiteers were heading for Tourist Track. We snaked our way up the road and got the last parking spot below Cavalry Crack Buttress.
With both of us being rusty we agreed the best idea would be to get plenty of confidence building mileage as opposed to difficulty on this trip.

Second pitch of Vampire (HS)

First up was Vampire (HS)- a weaving three pitch route on Cavalry Crack Buttress.

The start of the first pitch took a wee bit of finding, and we nearly made the mistake a few folk have done (according to UKC)  in climbing a bold looking direct variation at E1.

After orientating ourselves to the correct start the true first pitch turned out to be a bit scrappy, but suitably amenable for our purposes.

The second pitch is a cracker, with an open book corner widening out into a slanting wall climb, parallel to Storm below.

Next were a couple of single pitch routes on the neighbouring Dundee Buttress. The first one we did was Promises (HS). It was Andy's lead and turned out a great wee route.

Breaking my own intention to stick to easier climbs I was tempted into trying Dundee Weaver (HVS). It looked straightforward from below (don't they all?) but the book warned it had a tricky crux moving into a crack at the top.

Sure enough, the hard moves took a bit of thought and effort to overcome. Unfortunately, during my lead the wind dropped and Andy was forced to stick the midgy hood on while I spent a few minutes getting sorted before going for the top out.

Secretaries' Direct Route (S)

The last and best route of the day was Secretaries Direct (S)-  a superb slab climb positioned high above the glen.

The rock quality on this route is impeccable. It must be one of the best Severes in Scotland?

What an enjoyable route. The starting move into the first corner is the nippiest of them all, then it's just brilliant steady climbing above. We did it in two long pitches rather than the 3 in the book which was fine with half ropes.

I reckon that was my first trip to the Glen this century. It's quite a scary thought to realise it's been over 12 years....

It was a great day out, all objectives were achieved. Got plenty of mileage (7 pitches), stuck bits of gear in and Elvis didn't enter the building once!

The Countdown Begins

Sunset over Harrington Sound (photo Davie Crawford)

In just over a month Julie and I will board a Gatwick- bound BA flight and leave Bermuda after nearly four years of expat life. Our temporary work permits are finito and we have no right to remain in Bermuda. We're actually ready to go back despite the attractions of life here. We've had an amazing time, we've found loads of new friends and had great adventures. We'll miss it, but it is time to move on.

For me, the best bit has been the climbing. It's been tremendous- if highly esoteric!

Bermuda is a small (20 square miles) sub- tropical archipelago situated atop an extinct volcano. It's in a very isolated position in the North Atlantic- more than 500 miles off the East coast of the US. This remote little outcrop features many miles of rocky coastline, white sandy beaches and clear turquoise ocean lapping the shores.

At first sight, it looks like there should be tons of climbing- but you change your mind when you actually touch the rock! This is not Yosemite. Most of the rock here is incredibly soft, sandy and has more in common with Weetabix than decent limestone. You really could excavate a cave with a tea spoon on most of the South Shore.
In fairness, most of it has been formed from petrified sand dunes- so it's not too surprising that locals tend to look very puzzled if you tell them you climb de rock.

When we arrived in May 2008 the Bermuda Rock Climbing wiki had been started by Grant Farquhar. This hosted route descriptions and photos of around 20 routes. These were mostly Grant's routes- his original DWS exploits at Admiralty House, the first sport climbs and a bit of beach bouldering. Many of these have become classics. Dave Macleod had been out here and while on holiday completed his 2004 roof climbing test piece 'Dark & Stormy' (V9). It was by far the hardest route on the island (and remains unrepeated to date despite some local attention over the years). He's been back since and established a V10- as if V9 wasn't hard enough....

We're currently totalling around 300 routes of all styles- most of them are DWS and Sport climbs.
There's a tiny active climbing community living in Bermuda, so whenever new venues and routes are discovered the news travels fast and everyone is excited to get involved.

In 4 years we've uncovered some great new places to climb. I've spent a lot of my own time trying to find the next holy grail of Bermuda rock. I've snorkelled and paddled miles of coastline in the pursuit of something worthwhile. Sometimes I got lucky, plenty of other times I ended up doing scrappy routes that nobody will ever climb again. Regardless of that, they all exist on the wiki as a record of fun times. As John Langston dryly observed, 'If you trip up in Bermuda, you record it.' Quite.

I'm glad to say that I did manage to unearth a few real gems amongst the choss. Here are some new routes I did that I like. I've done quite a few other good ones but these stick out as worth talking about-

Davie Crawford working Captain Caveman prior to the FA (photo Grant Farquhar)

Josh Hill cranking on Captain Caveman (photo Davie Crawford)

Captain Caveman (5.11a, 5m)- Davie Crawford. 19th September 2008. Clarence Cove.
In the couple of weeks prior to attempting this route I'd been successful (after plenty of work) on Grant's superb Atlantis (5.11b). Buoyed with confidence, I spied this unassuming looking unclimbed roof on the West side of Clarence Cove and announced to Grant that I thought I might be able to flash the first ascent...
Hmmmm.

Over the many subsequent days trying it I lost count of the unplanned splashdowns as my failure to flash it turned to into an epic battle! It became apparent that I was not only weak, but I had absolutely no idea how to climb steep ground. A long crux move crossing a horizontal section was proving desperate. I was collecting some serious air miles, and the swinging falls were so frequent that when I eventually found the key- a slightly unnerving heel toe jam that held the swing- I was as shocked as I was delighted to find myself stood on the top for the first time. Fantastic!

I was alone at the crag and my climb had not been witnessed. The next day I returned with Grant and Fabian Gysi and felt under pressure (from myself) to prove I'd actually done it. Luckily I topped it out again on my first try. Grant and Fabian then followed. As they're both honed rock gods they both flashed it- but I didn't care. They'd been gentlemen and let me slog out my siege of attempts when they could easily have pinched it from under my nose.

Captain Caveman has turned out to be a popular route at Clarence Cove. It's short, it looks relatively harmless but it's very action packed. I wasn't the only climber to take the plunge off it- as you'll see in the photos below. The Caveman has claimed many scalps over the years! A 5m long 5.11 might seem a wee bit ridiculous, but all DWS and Sport routes here are on the YDS system so I'll take the 5.11 over a V2, thank you.

The Captain Caveman crew- from top left- Greg Baird collecting air miles, Paddy 'Power Scream' Cunningham in full effect, Jazmyne Watson showing some typically gritty determination. In the centre- Marie- Pier Belanger hits the 'C' of YMCA before splashdown! (photos collage by Davie Crawford)

Grant Farquhar (left) and me doing the 'dynamic descent' off Somerset Sea Cliff. The route Craic Heads is directly behind me, with the finishing layback crack visible (photo Julie Crawford)

Craic Heads (5.10b R, 10m)- 4th June 2009. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar. Somerset Sea Cliff.
This route is found on an attractive white wall of limestone on Somerset Island. Like many of the crags, we discovered this one by boat on one of our DWS exploration/ beer voyages. We'd hire a boat, load it up with beers, bikini- wearing babes (hi to Julie and Eloise!)  and bob our way round the coastline looking for new venues.

Somerset Sea Cliff was a cracking discovery and it turned out to be the best crag in the Great Sound.
It's a decent height for DWS and the vertical rock is generally very good (by Bermuda standards). The only negative point is a shelf of fire coral sticking out a few feet directly under the routes. Falling climbers must be careful to push off the rock to clear the shelf and avoid injury- hence the 'R' rating.

Craic Heads is probably the best route of the crag and it gives a cracking climb of two halves- each with a different character. The immaculate lower wall is technical and sustained. It demands your full attention- especially with the fire coral looming below. On our ascent I remember finding this section pretty tricky. There were enough holds to keep moving but not so many that you could relax.

The layback crack came within reach at just the right point for me. Two more thin moves and I got both hands into the perfect crack. It was an enjoyable blast to the top from there- making a brilliant contrast to the hard start below.
According to Josh Hill who last repeated it, he commented it's likely more 10c than 10b. Whatever the grade is it's a great climb.

Grant seconding the FA of La Cucaracha. He looks like he may be trying to stare out the cockroach in this. (photo Davie Crawford)

La Cucaracha (5.11a, 15m)- Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 1st February, 2009. Tsunami Wall.
This is in a seaside cave on Hamilton Parish's North Shore, Grant spotted the cave from a friend's boat and named it Tsunami Wall. He described it in the wiki as an 'escapee from Thailand' with its impressive tufas everywhere.
He immediately set to developing it, climbing many impressively steep sport routes threading the stalactites and steep roofs.

This particular route gained its name from a huge, totally unimpressed cockroach that spectated on the FA near the top.
I equipped the route one morning before work, hanging from an abseil rope in the cave with a battery powered drill, trying (with limited success) to get decent expansion bolts placed into the pillar on the left of the wall. The rock had a hard crust but behind that initial inch or so it turned very, very soft. More like wet mud than stone. The bolts were tending to spin when I tried to tighten them. Not inspiring at all.....

My drilling and hammering attracted some unwanted attention. A female voice shouted 'who dere?' through the partially bricked up cave entrance. I hastily made up a tale of me being a Geologist collecting rock samples (easier than explaining what I was really up to, I reckoned). She seemed to buy that little story, but before she left she told me to be careful about some dangerous crack heads in a neighbouring house. Apparently these were 'real bad guys'. I took note. Eventually I managed to place 5 bolts and headed off to work. The bolts weren't ideal but they were as good as I could manage.

Most Bermudian routes are steep on big holds. La Cucaracha is unusual in that it's around vertical and features smeary bridging and generally crimpy moves.It took 2 red points attempts to get this route done. I got pretty close on the first one, but I was unwilling to commit to a fall and called 'take' at the last bolt.

The final go was a frantic affair. I knew I didn't have much left in the tank but I was desperate to get the route done. My climbing reflected this. I sprinted my way up to the last clip and got to the final hard rock over move below the skylight exit. I was pumped rigid but there was no time to stop now though. Just as the energy meter flashed red I made a desperate lunge and with some scrabbling action I flopped onto the top. Grant thought I was coming off.

Up on top the sun was shining as I set up a belay. I was delighted. I'd pushed hard and it had paid off. I may have been even happier that I hadn't tested the bolts. Looking back now, I'm also pleased to say the crack heads never showed their faces!
(John Langston re- equipped the line with beefy marine grade Jim Titt glue- in bolts in 2010- a big improvement!).

Clam-O-Rama first ascent (video still by Grant Farquhar)

CLAM-O-RAMA (5.10d 10m) Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar. 26th May 2010. Ladies Chambers Crag.
The sea was warming up nicely and we still had a few more km of coast to check out. Grant and I pulled on our new routing trousers, pumped up my £30 Seahawk inflatable dinghy and set sail Eastwards.This venue was the find of the trip and remains one of the best DWS spots in Bermuda. It's named after a small park you have to walk down through to reach it.

It's a very steep crag and at more than 10m high it does feel like you're doing a proper route- as opposed to the bouldery feel of some places. There are crags with slightly better rock quality but the Chambers' combo of the height and steepness make this one to return to.

The rock is quite interesting here. Tightly, horizontally bedded layers of wafer thin fragile limestone- like fine china but more pound store china than fine stuff. This makes the climbing reasonably amenable- as long as you have stamina. The dinner plate holds provide good flat jugs- but they feel like they could snap at any point. Surprisingly they turn out to be strong enough. But you definitely can't get all dynamic and slap about. Delicate, wildly overhanging jug hauling sounds like it should be weird. It is weird but it's good.

I didn't have any stamina to speak of (a running theme with me) so Clam-o-rama took a few attempts before it was in the bag. On the day of ascent a local fisherman saw me and Grant scrambling around and drove his boat over to ask what de hell we were doing? If you watch the Climb de Rock 2 video you can hear Grant's replies.

To sum it up- I'm half way up and the guy starts asking Grant what I'm doing. Most locals don't have a clue about rock climbing so when Grant answers him back with 'he's climbing' the guy is none the wiser. The English language only provides one usable word to describe someone going up a rock face, so on the video you hear Grant trying to film me while simultaneously struggling to explain the alien concept of climbing to a Bermudian fisherman!

I topped out the route, totally unaware of anything that had been going on in the background. Watching the video later I was a bit alarmed to see how close the fisherman drove his boat to the crag. I wouldn't like to imagine what might have happened if I'd fallen at the wrong moment, and I bet the fisherman wouldn't have either!

Anyway, Clam-o-rama was done. I heartily recommend this pumpy little minx of a climb.

Climbing in Bermuda has been great. I can't envisage a time when virtually unlimited new climbing will available to me like it has here. It's been an incredible opportunity and I'd like to thank everyone I've climbed with here, particularly Grant.

Note to anyone interested-  it's great fun here, but it's also very, very expensive. Trust me.
There are a lot of better and easier options to choose for a climbing trip.

However, if you do happen to end up here (as many people have done) make sure you post a message on the wiki. Someone will be more than happy to show you around the spots. Enjoy!

If you want to check out the Clam-o-rama sequence it's featured on the film Climb de Rock 2 here-